4-Xtremes – Part 9: Adventures from the Lofoten islands to Storebælt

It is more than 1400 km as the crow flies from the Lofoten islands high up in northern Norway to the most southerly tip of Sweden. You can draw that on a typical map as an almost vertical line. However, if you follow the route on the actual road, you have to take a good few "detours". To put it succinctly: we have done a lot of kilometres over the last few weeks.

We had been looking forward to the Lofoten islands for a long time. But as is often the case, when you have high expectations of something: you’re disappointed. We had to sit out a storm for several days. The bridges were closed and we parked in a small harbour – facing away from the wind which ripped across the islands at up to 120 kilometres an hour. Travelling was arduous and we kept an eye on the weather apps at all times in order to find a relatively calm place in good time.

Wild landscape, many campers.

The landscape on the Lofoten islands is very wild and craggy mountains drop steeply down to the water. That leaves little room for the many campers, so several vehicles always have to share the few parking spaces. The region is very touristy and regulated accordingly. On the islands, we missed the wide-open space, free of people that you can experience elsewhere up here.

That is why we set off back towards the mainland after a few days. After three hours on the ferry we reached the town of Bodø and continued our drive along the coast. The weather on the mainland was noticeably warmer than on the Lofoten. And although there were lots of campers there, they were more spread out. And not forgetting: there is a lot to see because the road leads across many fjords and past glaciers.

“Prisoners” across the Arctic Circle.

On this route there are several short ferry routes. Which is how we came to cross the Arctic Circle on water as we headed south. There is, in fact, a beautiful monument on a rock, but we were “imprisoned” in the cab of our Axor in the bow of the ferry. It was so full that, unfortunately, we couldn’t climb out and only heard the moment we crossed the Arctic Circle over the loudspeakers.

We used the time when it didn’t rain to hike and discover the autumnal landscape. But we had to take precautions: as the hunting season had begun, a few hunters advised us to put a high-vis vest on Aimée so that she wasn’t shot by mistake. Apparently accidents like that happen more often than you think.

Spring cleaning in autumn.

Trondheim is around 700 kilometres south of Bodø: it was our first large city since we visited Helsinki a good few weeks ago. Despite the rain we really enjoyed the city which is more than 1000 years old and its colourful houses. From there we continued eastwards and crossed the border to Sweden several hours later before finally reaching the Swedish coast at the Baltic Sea.

Once there, we found a peaceful place to complete some maintenance work – and for the first time in a while do some spring cleaning with the windows and doors wide-open. We have long since got used to our small ten-square-metre living space. But when the weather is bad for a longer period, it is difficult to keep it clean. You just can’t stop dirt being carried in on your shoes. Clean clothes become rare too. We do indeed have a washing machine. But as soon as you hang up the washing in the living area, it gets claustrophobic.

Farewell to northern Europe.

On the way to Sweden’s most southerly tip, we visited the royal palace of Tullgarn, walked through national parks on the coast and visited picture-book villages. Here in the south, the red wooden houses, that everyone associates with Sweden, disappear and there are more half-timbered houses – more like those found in Germany.

And this really marked the end of our adventures in northern Europe. By the time you read this we will have crossed the Storebælt bridge, left Denmark behind us and – if everything is going to plan – we’ll be on the road in the direction of Greece. More about that next time here on RoadStars!

Photos: 4-Xtremes