4-Xtremes – Part 71: Premier seat at the "end of the world"

Ushuaia is located in the south of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego – literally the big island of Land of Fire. The city is something of a place of pilgrimage for travellers. No wonder, it is considered to be at the "end of the world". It's a must for anyone who somehow has the opportunity to go there. Today we can announce: the Axor and we have reached this major milestone of our "4‑Xtremes – The World Tour".

The trip here – and that's what the "end of the world" is all about – was long. Even the last section that we are taking you on today, stretched over around 1,000 kilometres. It started in the coastal town of Puerto San Julian in Argentina’s Santa Cruz province. By the one‑to‑one replica of the "Victoria". And with this feeling of amazement at how small the ship was that first circumnavigated the world. In 1519, five ships, all between 20 and 30 metres long and 6 to 10 metres wide, set sail under the command of the Portuguese navigator Fernão de Magalhγes – Ferdinand Magellan. On board: a crew of 237. Almost three years later, only the "Victoria" with its 18‑strong crew returned to its home port.

From Argentina to Chile and back.

The next destination was Monte León National Park, also in the province of Santa Cruz, and also located on the coast. As is the case further north, this is the habitat of plenty of Magellanic penguins and sea lions. However, we are even more fascinated by the enormous difference between low and high tide: a whopping nine metres! We took some pictures on the beach at low tide. 

After around 420 kilometres, Ruta 3 turned into Ruta 255 because we crossed the border to Chile. A border that is easy to overcome. However, we had to adjust our food supplies quite a bit in the days before. Chile prohibits the import of fresh foods such as fruit, vegetables, meat and dairy products. Upon crossing the border, all we had on board was rice, pasta and tinned vegetables.

Across the Strait of Magellan by ferry.

A good hour later. We were waiting for the ferry that would take us across the Strait of Magellan – the legendary seafarer is credited with its discovery. It was only a short journey once we made it on board the vessel. Just 30 minutes later, we arrived at Tierra del Fuego. South America’s southern tip is so called because Magellan claimed to have seen countless fires sparked by the indigenous population here.

After having arrived at Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego, instead of taking the direct route south, we took a smaller road that runs along the Strait of Magellan. Or rather: we drove along a gravel track next to the road that is currently being expanded. Consequently, we reduced the tyre inflation pressure again to make the ride much more comfortable. After a while, we came across a bright orange Arocs with a tipper body.

Beaver plague and cash.

Because we don't like driving in the dark, we spent a night on the roadside. As soon as construction site traffic stopped in the evening, we spotted a family of beavers. As cute as these little critters are, they are a plague on Tierra del Fuego. The beaver was introduced in the 1940s by fur traders from North America. As it has no natural enemy in South America, its population increases unabated, gnawing down trees in the process. With huge consequences for the entire ecosystem.

The next day we reached Porvenir. In this charming town with a population of 7,000, we withdrew Chilean cash and bought a SIM card and some fresh food in small shops. Locals are really nice and happy to be in contact with travellers. A good bit further on we witnessed the only colony of king penguins outside the sub-Antarctic islands.

The end is not the end.

The weather here is a mixed bag. With the sun shining, we drove through the "city gate" of Ushuaia, strolling along the shore in the finest weather. The next morning we got caught up in severe snow showers. It wasn't cold enough to settle, but seeing the snow was still beautiful. We spent a cosy winter's day and experienced a spectacular sunrise the next morning.

Ushuaia may be the end of the world, but it is not the end of our journey. From now on, there is one direction above all for us: north.

Photos: 4-Xtremes