4-Xtremes – Part 62: A tour of the Highlands in the rain for Andrea and Mike

The Orkneys and Shetlands are fantastic overland destinations, which we’ll want to visit again at some point. But now it’s time to take the ferry back to the mainland, where an awful lot of rain is waiting for us! But more on that later. First things first, we have another "most-northern point" to tick off our to-do list...as we're heading south, would you have it!  

It's called Dunnet Head: the northernmost point of the Scottish mainland, and it welcomes us beneath a clear sky. After a short stop, it’s time for the North Coast 500. Often referred to simply as the NC500, this road runs along the North Sea coast on a hundred-kilometre-long circuit.

More traffic on terrible roads.

We take the route westwards – and immediately notice that there is significantly more traffic than on the islands, even though like on the Orkneys and Shetlands, not many people live here. This is because the NC500 is one of Britain’s most famous tourist routes. Nevertheless, we are a little surprised that there is so much going on so far north and so late in the year.

Less surprising on a route frequented by lots of guests are the signs reminding drivers to keep on the left in several languages. This is something we got used to a long time ago! What we find more of a challenge is that a large part of the route is only single-lane and in relatively poor condition. What's more, we're also faced with heavy oncoming traffic, making progress slow. However, our struggles are rewarded with a fantastic view of the wild coastal landscape.

Black river from the Highlands.

Right behind the coastline, towering mountains loom up high: a constant presence. You know us: we are drawn to their lofty peaks like a magnet and leave the Axor to go on a few hikes in the rugged landscape, where you can see all the way to the coast in good weather.

A bit off the beaten track, we come across a river that bears its name very well: Black Water. Like lots of rivers that originate in the Scottish highlands, its water contains high concentrations of dissolved iron and manganese, giving it its dark colour. But whereas elsewhere, the water is often just reddish-brown, here, it is very strikingly almost black.

Scotland shows its best side.

Finally, we spend a few days in the expansive region of Argyll and Bute, which is also located in the west. There are lots of peninsulas and islands here, with several small ferries running between them. Best of all, however, Scotland is once again showing its best side. Authentic villages, picturesque castles, standing stones and stoneworks from prehistoric times: we do the full programme – and the colourful sunsets over the sea serve as the icing on the cake!

We have spent two and a half months in Scotland, and the northernmost part of the UK has exceeded our expectations in every way. But 4-Xtremes – The World Tour must continue! The next big ferry is booked: to Northern Ireland – we can already see its coastline the evening before departure.

Photos: 4-Xtremes